Why Not Thessaloniki? Discover Greece’s Beautiful North!
As we come to the last part of our Slow Travel around Greece series, we explore the country's northern city of Thessaloniki. While Athens is an undisputed Must-Visit in Greece, Thessaloniki is often overlooked. Undeservedly, I have to say, since it is the cultural capital of Greece. The city has a vibrant bohemian flair with so much history and art around every corner. Walking through the streets of Thessaloniki, you get a feeling of the 'real' Greece with all its trials and tribulations. No make-up, no pretending! We travelled to Thessaloniki in October 2020 and were blown away by this stunning place! Join us today to have a closer look at what the city has to offer!
First of all, let’s get oriented! Thessaloniki is the second-biggest city in Greece after Athens, with a population of about 1 million. The city is located in the north of Greece and is the capital of the Macedonia region. You have surely heard about all the kerfuffle between the bordering country of Macedonia and the Greek region of Macedonia. Everyone wants to be the one and only Macedonia. Conveniently situated at the Thermaic Gulf in the northwest corner of the Aegean Sea, Thessaloniki is a major port city and transport hub for Greece as well as the southeast of Europe.
Founded in 315 BC Thessaloniki was an important metropolis in the Roman empire and then the Byzantine Empire. In 1430 the Ottomans conquered the city which left Thessaloniki for nearly 500 years under Turkish rule until it was given to Greece in 1912. Even though the Greek-Turkish relationship has been tense at the best of times, their history and culture are deeply intertwined which is evident in their culture, food and history.
Thessaloniki Culture Hub
Today, Thessaloniki is the cultural centre of Greece, best-known and loved for its events, festivals and vibrant art scene. One of the reasons for the rich culture is that the city is home to Aristotle University, the largest university in Greece. You can’t take a step in Thessaloniki without stumbling across either a stunning Byzantine landmark or some unexpected piece of art. There is always something new to discover. Apart from the ever-present history and art, Thessaloniki is the best place for a food safari. You can find small local restaurants everywhere, serving delicious, freshly home-cooked meals. It’s the perfect place to sit in a street cafe or restaurant with a drink and a good meal and just watch the locals go about their business.
My Personal Impressions
Thinking back to our time in Thessaloniki I have to be very careful to not confuse my memories with Izmir, Turkey. Those two cities are so similar in looks and feel, it is hard not to confuse them. The promenade, the buildings, the city layout – it all is so familiar. Even the food and culture seems so similar and both cities are connected by Kemal Attatürk, founder of the Turkish republic. Attatürk was born in Thessaloniki and spent most of his life in Izmir. It is fascinating to see how much these two places have in common, even though the countries are usually at odds with each other.
Anyway, coming into the city by bus from the airport, my first impression of the city was that it felt entirely local. There didn’t seem to be that polished tourist enclave that Athens has in Plaka around the Acropolis. Everything seems very real with its beautiful historical Byzantine churches, towers and forts, but also a modern side that tells a tale of economic hardship. The Aristotle University – the biggest in the country – takes an important place in the city. Not only as an institution, but as an important part of the sociopolitical life of the people.
You can literally feel that this city is – and has been for centuries – a place for intellectuals. People seem to still sit in cafes and bars, discussing current politics and philosophy, fighting for the rights of the citizens. Around every street corner, you can see Greek graffiti slogans sprayed on walls and houses, fighting for something!
Thessaloniki Must-Visits
The city is chock-a-block with museums, Byzantine churches, historical buildings and other sights, too much to mention all here. Therefore, I have chosen the 5 highlights I enjoyed most and believe you should not miss out on when visiting the city!
#1 - Walk the Seafront Promenade
Walking along the Seafront Promenade is the best starting point for getting to know the city. The walk offers some great views over the harbour, the city plus many of Thessaloniki’s sights are located along or close to the promenade. From here you can dart out to explore some of the city’s biggest highlights, such as the White Tower, the Aristotelous Square, several museums, the Alexander the Great Statue as well as the Arch of Galerius. You find little gardens and parks next to the promenade, a nice contrast to the busy metropolis. Find a bench, take a rest and just watch the locals go about their daily business! It is definitely the best place to get a feel for Thessaloniki!
#2 - Visit the White Tower
The White Tower of Thessaloniki is probably one of Greece’s most important landmarks. Build in the 15th century by the Ottomans, the tower stood recently in the centre of the historical Macedonia dispute! In the early 1990s, the newly formed former Yugoslavian state of Macedonia printed unofficial banknotes depicting the White Tower of Thessaloniki, even though it was a Greek landmark and symbol. This fueled the fire in the larger dispute over the name Macedonia between the former Yugoslavian state and the Greek region. The banknotes were never used as an official currency but sold as tourist souvenirs in Skopje, which enraged the Greeks tremendously.
Visit the six-storey high White Tower which is now a museum to learn more about its century-long history. An audio guide explains the exhibits in the tower and if you climb up the six storeys to the top, you’ll be rewarded with a great view over the harbour and the city!
#3 - Walk up to the Heptapyrgion
As mentioned before the walk up to the Heptapyrgion is definitely worth a visit! The Heptapyrgion is located in the northeast corner of the Acropolis of Thessaloniki. Yes, you read correctly – Thessaloniki has an Acropolis, which means citadel! The Heptapyrgion was built during Byzantine and Ottoman rule and is, therefore, also known under the Turkish name Yedi Kule. The fortress has a long and illustrious history, having served as a fortress and later as a prison. While this all sounds doom and gloom, the thick walls of the fortress have also done some good. The area around the fortress is the oldest part of town called Ana Polis. While the rest of the city fell victim to the great fire of 1917, the thick walls of the fortress protected Ana Polis, which makes it the only original part of Thessaloniki today.
Take the opportunity to walk up through the city, along the ancient walls of the fortress. It is quite steep at some places, but the higher you climb, the better the views. If you are lucky and the weather is clear, you can even see fabled Mount Olympos on the other side of the Thermaic Gulf! You also get a better impression of how vast this city really is! A word of advice – go in the late afternoon to catch the sunset from one of the cocktail bars. It’s less hot and any sunset is best enjoyed with a cool beverage in hand! Trust me!
#4 - Spend some time in Ladadika
Located close to the promenade and the Port of Thessaloniki, Ladadika has been one of the most important marketplaces in the city for centuries. Many French/Italian Jewish merchants lived and traded in the area, which is why it was also known as the ‘Frankish district’. Thanks to its colourful traditional shophouses, in 1985 the Ministry of Culture declared the area a protected heritage site. These days the traditional shophouses are mostly home to restaurants, bars and cafes.
Do take some time to wander through the beautiful streets and try as many of the local restaurants and bars as you can. No matter if you crave traditional local fare or lust after some world-class international dishes, you can find anything here. It’s easy to spend a good couple of hours here, exploring this historical area while trying some of the amazing local food and drinks.
#5 - Explore Aristotelous Square
Last but not least – a Must-Visit when in Thessaloniki is the Aristotelous Square. It is the main city square in the city and is one of the most famous places in all of Greece. While visitors from all over the world come to experience its grandeur, it plays an important cultural role for the locals beyond the boundaries of Thessaloniki. Many political rallies and speeches have been organised in Aristotelous Square as well as cultural events and festivals
The great fire of 1917 destroyed most of Thessaloniki and the city had to be rebuilt. The square was designed in 1918 by the French architect Ernest Hebrard, but partly due to financial reasons it was only built in the 1950s. The Aristotelous Square reaches from the promenade to Nikis Avenue, the city centre and main shopping mile in Thessaloniki. Enjoy the stunning square, have a coffee in one of the many cafes and shop for some souvenirs. A lovely place to soak in the unique atmosphere of the city!
Halkidiki & Afytos
If you are in Thessaloniki take the opportunity to visit the Halkidiki region about an hours drive south of the city. It’s an area with several peninsulas jutting into the sea, making it look like fingers. We stayed in Afytos, a stunning little village in the north of the ‘first finger’. This little hilltop village with its cobblestone streets is the perfect place to enjoy the coast and get a feeling for Greece. You book a car online from Localrent.com and drive in about an hour to Afytos. The roads leading to Afytos are wide and easy to navigate. I would however recommend renting a small vehicle because the streets in town are extremely small and narrow. The little town has many good restaurants and cafes, fantastic views over the sea and access to the beach. The beaches around here are all pebble beaches. There are a lot of little beach bars where you can spend the day on a beach bed either for a small fee or only by buying a couple of drinks here. Make sure you explore the Halkidiki area since there are a lot of hidden gems!
Thessaloniki - A Foodie's Paradise
The Greek cuisine is surely one of the best in Europe, no doubt. Thessaloniki however has developed into a foodie’s paradise, as the municipality has invested in gastronomic tourism. Especially the Ladadika district truly is culinary heaven. You find street after street filled with restaurants, bars and cafes – be it local Greek tavernas with traditional fare or world-class international restaurants. Whatever your pallet desires, you can find it. Needless to say, that we spend nearly an entire day in the Ladadika district, trying and testing ourselves through numerous bars and restaurants. The best meals we had though were small traditional Greek tavernas with the typical Greek fare. Nothing fancy, but such good home-cooked food. I would recommend following your instincts when wandering the streets. If you see a restaurant that looks inviting to you, go for it! There is not much that can go wrong.
If there is any city in Greece with outstanding street food, it is Thessaloniki. You find little bakeries at every corner, selling the typical local fare. It is simply delicious and it is cheap!
Must-Try Local Dishes
If you read about typical Thessaloniki dishes, the first one you will come across is Bougatsa. It’s a sweet pie with a semolina or custard filling, traditionally part of any self-respecting Thessalonican’s breakfast. It’s a delicious start to the day and best enjoyed with a good cup of coffee
Speaking about coffee – it’s another important part of Thessaloniki’s food culture. Of course, there is the typical Greek coffee, which is a strong, thick brew served in a small copper pot called briki. It very much looks and tastes like Turkish coffee, once again underlining the strong cultural ties between the two countries. However, the typical way in Thessaloniki to enjoy a cuppa is in the form of a Frappe! A Frappe is usually instant coffee with loads of sugar and ice cubes, topped with foamed milk. It’s the ideal beverage if you take a break in the middle of the day, sitting in the shade, slurping on a good ice-cold Frappe!
A great quick snack on the go and very typical in Thessaloniki are sesame bagels called ‘Koulouri Thessalonikis’. Always fresh and delicious, it’s a tasty little snack for breakfast or any time during the day.
And last but not least – give the Spanakopita a try! These little parcels of deliciousness consist of phyllo pastry, spinach, scallions and feta cheese. Eat it for breakfast, lunch or dinner – it’s always a winner!
A typical Sunday lunch item you can find anywhere in Thessaloniki is Soutzoukakia Smyrneika. Say what? Yes, it’s a mouthful, but a delicious one. It’s meatballs, often rectangular instead of round, cooked in tomato sauce and served with rice, mashed potatoes and a slice of crusty bread! You can definitely kiss the carb-free diet goodbye with this dish, but it’s worth every calory.
Tips from the Local
Since Efi, our friend from Life Lovers Greece lives in Thessaloniki I asked her which cafes she would recommend visiting. She picked her three favourite places, which you should have a look at when in Thessaloniki!
- La Nina Frida: This beautiful Frida Kahlo themed cafe offers delicious, homemade snacks, lemonade and outstanding coffee. The products served here are locally sourced, supporting small local breweries and other local producers. This little cafe-meets-gallery has been set up by five friends with similar ideas and values, wanting to create a space for locals to hang out and spend some quality time with friends. No wonder it’s a local favourite, so why not get in the mix and enjoy a good coffee here?!
- The next on the list is To Oreon Depo, which means ‘Beautiful Depot’. This beautiful cafe is set up as a non-profit cooperative of people of different backgrounds, all sharing a love for their neighbourhood in the southeast of Thessaloniki. The cafe serves traditional Greek snacks and drinks. All food and drinks served are carefully selected, making sure workers get paid a fair wage and patrons pay a fair price. What’s not to love?! Give it a whirl if you are in the area!
- If you are looking for a great place in the evening visit Kafodeio Elliniko, which means the Greek coffee place! The cafe is open from 8 am to 4 am every day, so you can choose if you come for a coffee during the day or for some drinks and live music at night. Enjoy the relaxed and funky atmosphere over a few drinks and some local live music.
With this, our journey across off-the-beaten-track Greece comes to an end. If you enjoyed this post and you are looking for more inspiration, also read Life Lovers Greece – Meet the Greek Slow Travel Expert and Authentic Crete – Why Not Conquer the Island by Camper Van?
I hope you found some inspiration for your next trip to Greece to get off the busy tourist paths and discover a different side to this beautiful country. There is so much more to see than ‘just’ the Greek islands.
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Have a great week and until next time!
