Untamed Borneo – My Ultimate Top 10 Must-Visit Places in Sabah!
Last week, we only dipped our toes into Borneo. Today, we take a deep dive, exploring the top 10 Must-Visit sights on the island. As one of the most biodiverse places on the planet and home to the world's oldest rainforest, you can imagine that there is a lot to discover. Most highlights Borneo has to offer are located in Sabah, the island's exciting North. This makes it easy to see as many amazing sights as possible, experiencing the unique landscape, people and wildlife. I love Borneo's untamed North and can't wait to show you my favourite places to see! Without much further ado, let's get started exploring the highlights of the world's third-largest island.
#1 - Mount Kinabalu
As South-East Asia’s highest mountain, Mount Kinabalu deserves the first mention of the top 10 list. It is, without a doubt, one of the most majestic sights Borneo has to offer. With 4095 metres Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea. Although some naysayers claim that the mountain has shrunk a few centimetres since the heavy 2015 earthquake, it is still an imposing sight!
As part of the Crocker Range, the mountain is conveniently close located to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah’s capital city. A two-hour drive will bring you to the Unesco World Heritage-listed area of Kinabalu National Park. The protected slopes around the mountain are home to some of the richest plant life habitats worldwide. Thanks to the distinct climatic zones and various rich soils, you can find more than 5000 different plant species here. The tropical climate usually sees to it, that there are always some clouds around Mount Kinabalu’s peak, hiding it from curious looks. If you are lucky though, you might catch a glimpse!
Climbing Mount Kinabalu
An overnight stay in Kinabalu National Park should be on your to-do list regardless if you plan to summit Mount Kinabalu or not! The national park has some great hiking trails through the unique flora and fauna that are worth exploring. Sutera Sanctuary Lodges offer a range of different accommodation options for all budgets and preferences inside the national park! What an experience to stay in the park at night listening to exotic noises of the nocturnal wildlife. You couldn’t come closer to unspoilt nature than here.
If you plan to summit mighty Mount Kinabalu, you can choose between a few different package options. You can book your climb with Sutera Sanctuary Lodges directly or you can go for several other options through the national park. The cheapest and most common option is the 2-day trekking package, including your mountain permits, tour guide and accommodation. It’s a bare-bones package, which doesn’t include getting to the national park. Prices currently start from about 1580 MYR per person (about 322 EUR or 382 USD) in a group of a minimum of 2-3 people. From about 2380 MYR per person (487 EUR or 575 USD), you can add an extra day, including pick-up from your hotel in Kota Kinabalu, a trip around the Crocker Range and an overnight in one of the national park’s accommodation options. It’s not cheap summiting Mount Kinabalu, but it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience not to be missed!
#2 - Overnight Hiking Trip in the Crocker Range
If you read last week’s post Exciting Sabah – All You Need To Know About Borneo’s Mystical North, you know that this trip comes highly recommended by our local friend, Joanne! As you can imagine, the stunning scenery and unique flora and fauna of Mount Kinabalu stretch around the entire Crocker Range. It’s a great little side trip if you stay in KK to get away from the hot humidity of the coast and into the cooler climate of the mountains. There are some fantastic trails to explore the region with rivers and waterfalls to take a break at and cool down. You trek through some dense jungle, broken up here and there by some clearings, offering breathtaking mountain vistas.
The overnight hiking option with Adventures in Borneo along Pineapple Ridge is a lovely 7 km hiking trail considered moderately strenuous. You can decide on the spot if you want to make it 14 km in total to your overnight stop or if 7 km are enough and get transported back by van. For the night, you stay at a homestay with a local family in one of the villages around. Become part of the community, see how the locals live and enjoy the unrivalled hospitality. For me, this is one of the best experiences to have when travelling!
#3 - Selingan Turtle Island
The overnight trip to Selingan Turtle Island is my favourite memory of Borneo! Getting up close and personal with these stunning creatures is an experience I will never forget. Therefore, if you plan to visit Borneo, add this excursion to your list!
Selingan Island is located about 40 km off the coast of Sandakan, in the east of Sabah. Air Asia offers several daily flights from KK to Sandakan, which are extremely quick and cheap. Don’t bother spending much time in Sandakan city, rather spend your time on all the highlights in the area. Your trip to turtle island includes all your meals, transport, accommodation and most importantly your full sea turtle experience.
Getting There!
The speedboat to Selingan Island departs in the morning from the Sandakan jetty, where you will meet your fellow turtle enthusiasts. In my case, it was only me and two other couples spending the next 24 hours together. Needless to say, I was third-wheeling a lot, yet it was an amazing feeling having the entire island for only the five of us! The boat ride takes about 1.5 hours from Sandakan and reaches the island around mid-morning.
The Island
On arrival, you get an introduction to the sea turtle sanctuary and get shown around the island. You get to see the beach, where the turtles come to lay their eggs at night and the artificial nesting areas. The staff relocates the freshly laid eggs from the beach to a secure nesting area, ensuring the eggs are safe from predators. After your first overview, you check into your room for the night and get lunch served in the communal area. During the afternoon, you have some free time to relax by the beach or have a walk around the island. And what a stunning island it is! I felt like Robinson Crusoe, stranded on a lonely island. The sand is so white it hurts your eyes, the water so clear and blue, it simply looks unreal. In the distance, you can see islands that are part of the Philippines. While it’s great to wave to the neighbours, it’s also the reason why there is armed security on the island.
The Highlight of the Stay!
At about 6 pm we returned to the communal area for dinner and a more in-depth talk about the sea turtles. From here, we had to wait for the staff down by the beach to let us know once the first turtle had arrived, ready to lay eggs! At about 9 pm we got the radio call from the beach to come for our sea turtle encounter. What an experience! Seeing this beautiful, rare animal laying her eggs was just mindboggling.
The second highlight of the night is releasing the freshly hatched baby turtles into the sea. I mean… come on!
After a good night’s sleep, you’ll have to get up early around 6 am for a quick breakfast. By 7 am, it’s time to say goodbye to the turtles and the island as you get back on the speedboat and on your way to Sandakan. If you plan your trip to Borneo, a visit to Selingan is a Must!
#4 - Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
Spotting orangutans in Borneo’s wilderness is a very tricky business. Your best bet, therefore, is to visit the Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre. The lush jungle area invites you to stay for a few nights, enjoying the peace and quiet in the natural habitat of the orangutans.
The Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre (SOURC) is Borneo’s first official rehabilitation project, set up in 1964. The centre is dedicated to returning orphaned, injured or displaced orangutans back to the wild. Most of the animals have been rescued from logging sites, plantations, illegal hunting or being kept as pets. The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is not only one of Sabah’s biggest tourist attractions but is world renown for its orangutan conservation and research efforts.
About the Centre
Located at the edge of the Kabili Sepilok Forest Reserve, the centre offers the ideal protected habitat for the orangutans to return to the wild. The grown-up orangutans roam the forest area around the centre, while the orphaned babies spend their time in the nursery, learning the essential skills to survive in the wild. Visitors to the centre can visit the nursery and watch the baby orangutans from a safe distance.
For a chance to spot the grown-up orangutans in their natural habitat, visitors follow a wooden boardwalk through the forest area to the feeding platform. There are daily feeding sessions at 10 am and 3 pm offering the best chances for an encounter.
Right next door to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is the Sun Bear Sanctuary. Sun bears are critically endangered in Borneo since they are hunted and poached for their bile. If you visit the area, make sure to visit both sanctuaries to support the conservation of these amazing yet vulnerable animals.
Why stay in Sepilok?
Sepilok is just about a 20-minute drive from Sandakan airport or 40 minutes from the city centre. Instead of visiting the area during a day trip, I would recommend staying for at least one night, ideally two to three nights. There are so many beautiful lodges in a 1-2 km radius of the Rehabilitation Centre that make it worth staying a little longer. The untamed nature of the area is ideal to relax and enjoy peace and quiet. Go for a walk to explore the area or just make yourself comfortable in your stunning lodge accommodation.
Most lodges lie within easy walking distance to the centre. If you are very lucky, you might get to see one of the elusive orangutans on the lodge premises. I stayed at the Sepilok Forest Edge Resort and I had a great experience here. The food was delicious, the resort premises were huge – the ideal place to just sit back and enjoy the exotic rainforest nature! The Rehabilitation Centre lies about an easy 20-minute walk away from the resort, a nice little leg stretcher. My most memorable experience at the resort was spotting a lone orangutan during a jungle walk behind the lodge. It was just the orangutan and me, curiously watching each other, with no one around! This was truly a once in a lifetime experience.
#5 - Kinabatangan River
Staying at the Kinabatangan River for a few nights is a definite Must-Do when coming to Borneo. The river is one of the last great wildlife territories in Sabah. Here, you have the chance of spotting wild orangutans, proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, several types of hornbills and many more. Along the river banks, you find a selection of fantastic lodges, specialised in showing visitors the best of the local wildlife during early morning, afternoon and night safaris on the river. The experienced local river guides can spot any animal in the thick forest. Early mornings and late afternoons are best to spot the animals as they are the most active during these times. Most lodges also offer night boat safaris or jungle excursions on foot, looking out for the nocturnal animals.
Where to Stay?
The lodges in the Kinabatangan area are all relatively similar in standard – some a tad bit more luxurious than others. Usually, the lodges offer set packages, including your meals and at least two daily safaris by boat. You can also book other optional activities, such as jungle walks, night walks or night safaris by boat on top of your package. This ensures you have the best chances to encounter some exciting wildlife during your stay. The morning safaris usually start very early at 6 am, returning to the lodge around 8 am for breakfast. Afterwards, you have time to relax and maybe have another nap until lunchtime around 12.00/13.00 pm. After lunch, you are free again until your next safari starts around 4 pm. Therefore, you have enough time in between safaris to relax or to book additional activities.
My Favourite!
My favourite place to stay along the Kinabatangan River is the Borneo Natural Sukau Bilit Resort. Yes, it’s a mouthful, but it’s a beautiful place. The communal area of the lodge overlooks the stunning river landscape while the guest huts are located in the shady jungle area behind the main house. An elevated wooden boardwalk brings you safely from the communal area at the river banks to the thick of the jungle, where your home for the next few nights is located. It’s the best place to spot some wildlife traipsing through the natural forest area, especially in the evenings. The guest huts are decked out with comfortable beds, private bathrooms and are all set in the natural environment of the rainforest. It is such a special experience to lay in bed, listening to the sounds of the jungle.
The food here is freshly prepared by the local cooks. You get served traditional, delicious dishes from the area. The staff is lovely and makes sure you get well looked after during your stay. Apart from your main meals, you always get tea, coffee and snacks before your early morning and afternoon river safaris. All other drinks can be bought in the restaurant bar. What could be better than sitting on the deck, overlooking the mighty Kinabatangan River with a cool drink in your hand? I loved it and can’t wait to go back!
#6 - Deramakot Forest Reserve
While the Kinabatangan River is a popular tourist destination to spot wildlife, the Deramakot Forest Reserve is one of the lesser-known reserves in Borneo. One of the reasons why Deramakot rarely features on any tourist itinerary is the hidden inland location of the reserve. It is located quite far from any major city which makes it quite a journey to get to. On the flip side, this is the reason why the reserve is home to the richest wildlife in Borneo! It’s one of the few places to find all 5 Borneo cat species and the best place to frequently come across gibbons and orangutans. If you have time, are a real wildlife enthusiast and don’t mind the journey, Deramakot Forest Reserve is a Must!
How to Get There!
Getting to Deramakot takes just a bit longer. One option is to catch a 7-hour road transport from Kota Kinabalu to Telupid, the closest town to the reserve. Another option is to take a flight to Sandakan and then take a 4-hour drive to Telupid. Either way, it will be a long travelling day, but this off-the-beaten-track experience is worth it.
Our good friends from Adventures in Borneo offer a 3 and 4-Day package to explore the outstanding wildlife and fascinating area of Deramakot. The trip officially starts and ends in Telupid and all additional travel arrangements to and from the starting point can be added to your itinerary. This is probably one of the most special experiences you can have in Borneo, which makes the journey so worth it!
#7 - Overnight Stay at Manukan Island
My visit to Manukan Island has been one of the best, most unexpected highlights of my last trip to Kota Kinabalu. Manukan is the second-largest island in the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, just off the coast of Kota Kinabalu. The island is so close to the city it only takes about a 20-minute speedboat ride to get to the stunning shores of Manukan. Locals and tourists alike love to come here for a day trip to enjoy the stunning beaches, go snorkelling or scuba diving.
If you really want to treat yourself, don’t just come for the day, stay for a few nights! The only accommodation on the island is the Sutera Sanctuary Lodge, offering stunning guest villas along the beach and in the lush tropical hills of the island. While it can get quite busy with day visitors, by latest 5 pm you have the island all to yourself. Walk the 1.5 km to the romantic sunset point to see one of KK’s famous sunsets. The guest villas not only offer any luxury comfort you could possibly need, they also offer some of the most spectacular views around. The lodge has two restaurants for the guests to choose from with delicious dishes from the region as well as Western classics. If you want to avoid the day-trippers on the beach, have a swim at the lodges own pool. It’s also possible to book snorkelling, scuba diving or island hopping excursions on the ground as well as taking the boat over to KK for a bit of shopping and exploring.
Staying for 2 to 3 nights in one of the Sutera Sanctuary Lodge guest villas is still one of my bucket list items! How better to enjoy the South China Sea than with a little luxury Robinson Crusoe experience?!
#8 - Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu is the adorable capital city of Sabah and is often underestimated. Wedged between the jungles of the Crocker Range and the South China Sea, the city has a very relaxed atmosphere. It doesn’t have the modern hustle and bustle of Kuala Lumpur or the old-world charm of Bangkok, but it has its own multicultural, more intimate charm. Even though KK has a population of over half a million people, the city centre seems pretty small and easy to navigate. Transport is easily arranged these days thanks to the Uber App.
You don’t find a lot of motorbikes in the city, which makes it less polluted and busy compared to most other Asian cities. You don’t feel suicidal trying to cross the road thanks to the easy flowing, mostly one-way traffic. Generally, this city is a pedestrian’s paradise with proper sidewalks and pedestrian crossings respected mostly by motorists. If you have been around Asia a bit, you quickly learn the value of a good sidewalk!
The promenade is a lovely area to have a stroll and enjoy a freshly caught local fish at the Night Seafood Market. The historic ferry port of Jesselton Point is a great spot to peruse the local market or catch a ferry to one of the neighbouring islands. Explore Gaya Street for its great restaurants, shops and multicultural atmosphere. And last but not least, don’t forget to enjoy the view from the Signal Hill Observatory over the city! For more detailed information on what to do in KK, have a look here!
#9 - Mabul & Sipadan Islands
Scuba Divers – this one is for you! Sipadan is one of the top 10 dive spots worldwide and should be on the bucket list of any self-respecting scuba diver.
The Sipadan Islands consist of Sipadan and Mabul, both tiny islands located off the coast of Semporna in the very south-east of Sabah. Since 2003 the area around the islands has been designated as a Marine Park by the Malaysian government. To protect the vulnerable underwater world, all resorts and hotels have been removed from Sipadan Island. Today, it is only possible to stay on Mabul Island and the surrounding Kapalai Islands, about a 25-minute speedboat ride from Sipadan.
The Diving
Divers know Sipadan best for the breathtaking “Drop Off” – a wall that drops from 5m to 600m of depth which makes you seemingly look into infinity. With a visibility of about 18 metres and a year-round water temperature of 28-30°C, you find perfect diving conditions here.
Thanks to their isolated location and the conservation efforts Sipadan, Mabul and the Kapalai Islands have healthy reefs, surrounded by deep ocean. This attracts several types of sharks, rays and turtles, which are quite common sights during diving excursions. If you are lucky, you might even get to see some rarer types of fish like the blue-ringed octopus, flamboyant cuttlefish, ornate ghost pipefish or frogfish.
How to Get There and Where to Stay
The closest airport to the islands is Tawau, the most south-eastern city in Sabah. From Kota Kinabalu, you can book a quick and cheap flight to Tawau with Air Asia. From Tawau airport, it’s about a 90-minute drive to Semporna in the east, the departure point for the boats to Mabul and Kapalai Islands. Ideally, book your airport transfer with your accommodation to avoid any hassle. Most resorts offer the transfer as part of the package or offer it for discounted rates.
Even if you come from KK or Sandakan, making the trip to Mabul and Sipadan is not a quick affair. Make sure you to stay long enough to make the trip worth it and to enjoy it to its fullest. Especially if you want to explore the underwater world properly, plan at least a week at one of the islands.
You can find a range of different accommodation options in Mabul and the surrounding islands. Most resorts are built on stilts over the water which gives the place an almost Maldives-like look! If you are looking for more detailed information on diving and accommodation options, contact Downbelow Adventures in KK.
The fact that it is not easy to get to Sipadan makes it so much more worth it! If you are even vaguely interested in scuba diving, Sipadan should be on your travel bucket list.
#10 - Kundasang Farm Visit & Poring Hotsprings
Last but not least – a visit to the Kundasang and the Poring Hotsprings should not be missing from your Borneo to-do list!
Kundasang is a small town in the Ranau district, only about 6 km outside Kinabalu National Park. At an elevation of about 2000 metres above sea level, this fertile valley produces the majority of Sabah’s fruit and vegetables. The slopes of the surrounding mountains are divided into small lots, growing all sorts of local produce. Kundasang is best known for its daily vegetable market, where people come to shop from far and beyond. Recently, a few farmers discovered the new wave of eco-tourism, opening their farms to visitors to show them around for a small fee. You learn about the local farming and get to try some of the locally grown produce. It’s a great excursion from KK and interesting to see how the locals live and make a living. With many little homestays around, spend a night with a family and be part of the village community. Maybe make the trip out to Mesilou, a small farming community not far from Kundasang that opened its doors to visitors, offering fantastic homestays.
Poring Hotsprings & Canopy Walk
From Kundasang it’s about a 45-minute drive to Poring Hot Springs. On your way, you come past the Kundasang War Memorial commemorating the 2,434 allied prisoners of war who were killed in Sabah during the Japanese occupation. By the end of the war, not one single POW had survived the prison camps or the infamous death marches from Sandakan to Ranau. Today, the Memorial is beautiful garden worth a visit on the way to the hot springs.
If you visit the Poring Hotsprings, you cannot leave without having done the canopy walk! I would suggest starting with the canopy walk to afterwards relax your feet in the natural hot springs. To enter the hot springs, you pay a small entrance fee of about 15 MYR (3 EUR or 4 USD) and another 5 MYR to enter the canopy walk.
The canopy walk is not too strenuous, but you shouldn’t be afraid of heights as you walk over swinging suspension bridges between the treetops of the rainforest. It’s a great experience exploring the forest from above, overlooking the beautiful landscape.
The hot springs are quite developed with perfectly shaped pools, where the natural hot water is kept. Little roofs above the hot springs shade visitors from the sun, making it comfortable to spend some time. In my head, it looked a bit more rugged and natural but I guess this is a typical case of unfounded expectations vs. reality!
Afterwards your hot springs experience, go for a little lunch in a restaurant next to the entrance to the hot springs. The terrace overlooks the forest and a river, the perfect end to an exciting day of exploration!
This brings us to the end of our Borneo exploration and series. I hope you had a good time getting to know the exciting northern state of Sabah and all its natural wonders. I hope it inspired you to travel to Borneo yourself once open to see this stunning place for yourself.
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Have a great week and until next time!
