The Road Best Travelled – Authentic Turkey From Izmir To Antalya!
Don't you just love the slightly nervous feeling just before you start a road trip? Especially in an exciting and beautiful country such as Turkey! Before your inner eye appears Shisha smoke, oriental decor, stunning coastlines and ancient ruins. What's it going to be like? What are we going to see? What adventures are waiting ahead? Let's go already!
As mentioned in the previous post Magical Turkey – Why You Should Plan Your Road Trip Now!, we will take you along for the ride around the Mediterranean South-West of Turkey.
Today, we will cover the first part of the itinerary with highlights such as the Mediterranean metropolis of Izmir, the mountain village of Şirince and ancient Ephesus, the mineral hot springs of Pamukkale and the Belle of the South – Antalya! We’ll explore not only the stop-over towns but all the highlights and must-see sights around it too. If you are ready, let’s dive straight in.
Stop 1: Izmir
Arrival - 3 Nights, 2 Days
Situated at the Aegean coast, Izmir is the third biggest city in Turkey with loads of history around every corner. As one of the oldest cities in the Mediterranean, Izmir played a significant role throughout at least 5,000 years of history. The Greeks and Turks have been fighting over Izmir and its surroundings for centuries. There has been a constant squabble over territory, meanwhile, the Greek and Turkish culture and history are heavily interwoven.
In 1922 Izmir was freed from (yet another) Greek occupation under the leadership of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, a field marshal, writer and later the founder of the Republic of Turkey. You’ll see the significance Atatürk has for Izmir when you come from the airport into the city. On the side of a mountain is a giant Atatürk head hewn in the rock, greeting all visitors to Izmir.
Apart from all the history, Izmir is a beautiful, modern Mediterranean city. Konak is the central district in the city where you’ll find all sights and the kilometre-long promenade along the Aegean Sea. If you stay in the Konak area you can pretty much walk to all sights without having to use any transport.
For all the slow travel lovers, I urge you to go see the highlights you are interested in but don’t pack your itinerary too full. Peruse the streets and make sure you visit some of the insanely delicious bakeries and cute cafes you can find at every corner. Stroll through the Culture Park or watch the fishermen along the Kordon Boardwalk waiting for the big catch. Take it easy!
Where To Stay
We stayed at the Piano Hotel – a cheap and cheerful hotel in a great central location. From the hotel, it’s about 1 km to get to the Kordon Boardwalk around Konak Pier and only a few hundred metres to the Culture Park. The Agora Open Air Museum, as well as the famous Konak Square, are also both situated within a 1-kilometre radius. Around the hotel, you have plenty of little shops and little food places to easily organise all your essentials.
The hotel itself is modern and nicely decorated – obviously in the piano theme. Our room was small but lovely with an en-suite bathroom. We had breakfast included in our room rate, which is served buffet-style in their restaurant area. It was good value for money, absolutely nothing to complain about. If you don’t want to spend too much money, the Piano Hotel is a great option to spend a few nights.
Izmir Must-Do's
We had two full days in Izmir which was enough to explore the city at a relaxed pace. As mentioned, all bigger sights are conveniently huddled together in the Konak area in easy walking distance to each other.
Kordon Boardwalk: My personal favourite was the kilometre-long Kordon boardwalk along the sea. Here, you can get some great views over the city, the sea and just daily life along the water. The promenade stretches from the Alsancak area in the North to the Çakalburnu lagoon further South. Ferries to Greece and other Turkish destinations have their ports here as well as smaller boats for sunset cruises. A little sunset cruise never hurt anyone, so maybe add this to your plans in Izmir.
Konak Square & Kemeralti Bazaar: Konak is the central square in Izmir with the historical clock tower, the official symbol of Izmir. It is also the entry to the Kemeralti Bazaar and the surrounding markets. You can peruse the stalls and shops filled with spices, herbs, teas and local specialities. Go shopping for jewellery, local fabrics or souvenirs – the world is your oyster. If you love to shop and to haggle, you’ll love the bazaar.
Agora Open Air Museum: Not far from Konak Square and Kemeralti Bazaar, you’ll find the ancient ruins of Smyrna, the ancient name of Izmir. It’s the Archeologial site of the Greco-Roman market and city centre that used to stand here. Parts of the ruins are visible from the road, but if you are interested in visiting this ancient site you’ll pay a 25 TRY entrance fee to wander around the ruins at your own pace. You can visit the museum between 8.30 am and 5.30 pm.
Atatürk Museum: The museum is located in a relatively unassuming house in the Alsancak area. It’s a great exhibition in pictures, memorabilia and text, showing the accomplishments and many roles Mustafa Kemal Atatürk had before becoming the founder of the Republic of Turkey. You can spend here as much or as little time as you like. It’s an interesting piece of history, worth a visit. The entrance is free and opening hours are between 8.30 am and 5.30 pm.
Culture Park: The park is the green oasis amidst the busy city life, with tranquil walkways and green areas to stroll and relax. The park is big enough to house the Museum of History and Art here, as well as any big concerts and festivals. One of the big annual events at Culture Park is the book fair, a week-long extravaganza that attracts local and international artists to entertain the crowds. It’s a lovely place if you need to escape the busy traffic of the city.
Must-Eats
As mentioned the city is full of mouthwatering bakeries, kebab shops and restaurants. Grab a good coffee and indulge in all sorts of pastries – savoury or sweet. I would recommend going on a little food safari around the city to hunt down the best Eats. If it looks good, give it a go! It’s the best way to get to know the city and the Turkish culture. Those little street food snacks are not only delicious but also extremely cheap.
The best area to find a plethora of bars and restaurants is the Alsancak district. If you want sea views with your drinks, you can pick and choose any place along the Atatürk Caddesi (Boulevard). Grab a sunset cocktail or beer and watch the world go by.
We treated ourselves to a lovely dinner at Tavacı Recep Usta Alsancak. The restaurant is a local institution with an olden day’s oriental decor and atmosphere. White robed waiters reminiscent of the Orient Express swoosh past with big trays of food, being extremely efficient meanwhile joking and laughing with the guests. The food was delicious and it was a great experience. I would highly recommend it!
Izmir - What's The Verdict?
Izmir is a bustling metropolis with Mediterranean flair and delicious food, you should take time to discover. The extensive international and local flight connections make it an easy hub to travel to and from. Once on the ground Izmir is a great starting point to travel further to the Aegean coast, the famous ancient ruins of Ephesus or the wine country around Urla.
We had a great time in Izmir and staying in the central district of Konak made everything very easy. If you decide to stay further out, Izmir does have a metro system you can use. However, if you are only here for a few days avoid the hassle and stay central.
We had 2 full days to explore the city, which seemed enough to cover all the highlights. Now it’s time to get on the road and explore the rest of this beautiful country.
Stop 2: Şirince & Ephesus
Izmir to Şirince - 1.5 hours, 87 km - 1 Overnight
We picked our car up from Izmir Adnan Menderes International Airport. The rental car pick-up procedure was easy, the car was excellent and we got the electronic road toll system explained, which was good to know. After everything was settled, we were ready to go!
The airport is situated South of the city which comes in handy avoiding having to drive through Izmir to get to Şirince, our first stop on our road trip. From the airport, it’s only about a 65 km drive – a nice and easy start to your life on the road in Turkey. The highways leading South are big and easy to navigate. During the hour-long drive you get a first taste of the spectacular mountain views and orchards along the road. We first reached Selçuk, the main city in the area. We stopped here for some lunch and a little walk around the town, before moving on to Şirince, our stop for the night.
The main ingredient to the best possible road trip is obviously a good rental car. For me personally it’s most important that the rental is affordable, easy and without any hidden costs. A great rental company to use during your Turkey trip is Localrent.com. They offer a wide range of cars at affordable rates and without huge deposit payments that get blocked on your credit card. Reserve your car online before arrival and off you go… Easy!
About Şirince
Şirince is a small mountain village located about 8 km outside of Selçuk. This little village’s roots go back as far as the Hellenistic period and has been initially set up by freed Greek slaves. It’s a beautiful example of Ottoman Christian architecture with even two churches still intact. To this day, Şirince only has about 600 inhabitants.
Not only the Greeks, but also the Romans had a big influence throughout the centuries on this area. Along the road towards Şirince, you can still see some remains of the Roman aqueducts that serviced the ancient city of Ephesus with water.
Today this quaint village’s main sources of income are tourism and agriculture, best known for its locally grown wine, olives and peaches. Along the streets of Şirince, you’ll find cosy wine bars, shops with dried local herbs and fruits, colourful souvenir shops and lovely restaurants. Everything comes with great views over the village’s unique architecture as well as the surrounding mountains with their vineyards and orchards. It is just stunning and should be on your road trip itinerary.
Where To Stay
What a lovely place the Şirincem Restaurant & Pansiyon was! Located right at the entrance to Şirince, you have a small designated parking area at the back of the restaurant. That doesn’t sound special, but since the village is mostly car-free, this little detail comes in quite handy when doing a road trip.
The restaurant area is beautifully decorated with a lush vine canopy growing above the tables, while colourful lights, blue tiles and other thoughtful details make you feel at home.
The guest rooms are located in a small house across the road from the restaurant, with rough stone on the outside and beautifully hand-carved wood on the inside. Everything has been decorated lovingly with local fabrics and the views from the window are just breathtaking.
The host and his staff couldn’t have been nicer or more caring, always making sure we were well-fed and happy.
The food was fantastic, especially the breakfast was out of this world. We got served so many small plates of delicious food items, we barely had enough space on the table to put it all down. Most of the food is locally sourced from the village – from honey to fresh cheeses, egg dishes and organic vegetables. Just amazing!
Şirince Must-Do's
The best thing to do in Şirince, is to explore the village. We tried to do a hike to a lookout point at the top a surrounding hill, but we somehow ended up in peoples private property and eventually gave up. Instead, we decided to give the local wine a try and enjoyed our time in a cosy little wine bar with a fireplace. The village has plenty of wine bars to choose from, some even come with great views over the village and the mountains. It’s the perfect place to peruse and to take it slow.
We stayed one night in Şirince, which is enough to explore the village and do a bit of wine tasting. If I had my time again, I probably would have stayed two nights, because it is just such a lovely place. A perfect haven to take it slow.
The Side Trip To Ephesus
The ancient city of Ephesus is the main attraction in the area around Selçuk and Şirince. The well-preserved ruins are the remains of what was once considered Greece’s most important city and most significant trading centre of the Mediterranean. No matter if you are a history buff or not, walking through ruins that have been built thousands of years ago is just awe-inspiring, no doubt! During the centuries Ephesus went through many battles and changed hands from ancient Greeks to the Roman Empire and today’s Turkey. It was not only a hub for trade, but it was also a significant centre for spreading the Christian faith throughout the region. You can still see the paved streets leading from the massive amphitheatre to the Temple of Artemis, the Virgin Mary House as well as the Celsus Library.
The entrance fee costs 100 TRY (about 10 EUR or 12 USD) and it opens daily between 8.00 am and 6.30 pm during summer (1 April – 1 October) and 8.30 am to 5.30 pm during winter (1 October – 1 April). Take at least two hours to peruse the huge area for all its ancient wonders. All information can be found at the sites in English. Take your time and enjoy this impressive piece of history!
Şirince & Ephesus - What's The Verdict?
It’s a beautiful stretch of land with so much history that deserves to be discovered. The stunning mountainous area around the village of Şirince is a Must-Visit, as is Ephesus. If you have limited time, one overnight will be sufficient to enjoy the area since it is close to Izmir and you don’t have a long drive. We arrived around midday and had the entire afternoon to discover Şirince – including a few hours at a nice little wine bar. The next morning we left after breakfast and spent at least 2-3 hours at Ephesus before hitting the road to Pamukkale. The drive took about 3 hours, give or take. We didn’t rush at all and arrived in Pamukkale in the afternoon.
If you have more time overall for your road trip I do suggest staying 2 nights in Şirince. It is such a nice place, it doesn’t hurt to linger longer, take a day to explore Ephesus and maybe Selçuk without missing out on what the village has to offer. A great place – it shouldn’t be missed on your itinerary.
Stop 3: Pamukkale
Şirince to Pamukkale - 3 hours, 199 km
1 overnight
We left Selçuk around midday and drove inland on the E87 towards Aydin and Nazilli. I have to say it’s not the most beautiful or inspiring drive, but you get a good idea of what most typical Turkish cities look like. We also expanded our Turkish vocabulary with ‘Nüfus‘, the Turkish word for “Population”. Each town sign doesn’t only tell you the name of the place but also its population! Now, there’s a bit of trivia for you! That was probably one of the biggest highlights of our 3-hour drive.
The road is pretty straightforward with very few chances to get lost. Maybe get some drinks and snacks in Selçuk before you leave since there aren’t any interesting or inviting places to stop on the way. If you need a toilet break, you can stop at any of the petrol stations and use their restrooms.
About Pamukkale
Pamukkale is also known as Turkey’s Cotton Castle. Wow, what a weird little place. It is not a particularly pretty little town if it weren’t for the mineral hot springs. The area around Pamukkale is flat and mostly speckled with cotton fields. Just amongst this relatively non-descript area towers a white steaming mountain, looking like a massive iceberg. It is quite a surreal scenery. The hot springs have been used for centuries for their healing powers, dating back as far as Roman times. The terraces are made of travertine, a sedimentary rock deposited by the hot spring’s mineral water. The bright white terraces and natural pools with blue water are an amazing sight. At the top of the hot springs, you’ll find the ancient Greco-Roman city of Hieropolis. The well-preserved ruins give you an insight into life thousands of years ago. Hieropolis has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988 to preserve this unique area.
Just opposite ‘the cotton castle’ you’ll find the modern town of Pamukkale with its hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops – all geared to towards servicing masses of tourists. As we were travelling during COVID times and in the low season, half of the shops were closed, others open, but empty. The local proprietors were trying hard to coax as many of the few tourists into their establishments as possible.
We arrived around late afternoon and spend the remaining sunlight hours walking around town, admiring the looming hot springs while coming up with a game plan for the next day.
Where to Stay and What to Eat
Pamukkale is first and foremost set up to serve tourists coming to experience the hot springs. It, therefore, has very little authentic charm. We stayed at Hotel Sahin, a decent hotel in a good location close to the hot springs and good value for money. Most hotels seemed pretty similar in amenities and rates. To be honest, it all seemed like much of a muchness. Everything was good, no complaints at all, but it also wasn’t mindblowing.
The same can be said for the food. We had a nice dinner in a cosy atmosphere at one of the few open places. For breakfast, we chose a place with good views of the hot springs and got a decent coffee and pancake. I am sure the other restaurants in the area are just as good. It was sad to see the locals struggling to make ends meet. Overall though, it really just is a place you specifically come to see the mineral hot springs and Hieropolis.
Pamukkale - What's The Verdict
The Pamukkale hot springs and Hieropolis are a great experience and I am glad we added this to our itinerary. It is such a unique place, you won’t easily find something similar elsewhere.
We entered the hot springs early in the morning when they opened at 6.30 am. The entrance costs about 110 TRY (around 11 EUR or 13 USD). Once you enter, you have to take your shoes off and walk barefoot on the white limestone across the hot springs. Since it was November and very cold in the morning, it was such a surreal atmosphere. The bright white travertines with steam rising from the hot water that is running down the mountain in little streams and gathering in the inviting natural pools. Unbelievable!
Even though the underground looks pretty slippery, it actually has a rough surface preventing you from slipping and sliding around the place. The higher you walk up the mountain the more steaming hot pools and streams you come past. It is allowed to bathe in the pools, which most people do in summer. Since it was pretty cold, we kept our clothes on and only stuck our feet and legs into the hot pools. The cherry on top was that we nearly had the place to ourselves with only a few other tourists around. What a special experience!
Once you reach the top of the hot spring mountain you can go and explore Hieropolis. It was such an unreal sight with the morning mist slowly lifting from the ruins. Absolutely stunning!
You can easily spend 2 -3 hours around the hot springs and Hieropolis just wandering around, enjoying the spectacular scenery.
A Few Final Tips
For the hot springs, take a backpack to put your shoes in as well as a towel for your feet. If you plan on bathing in the hot springs bring the needed swimming gear with you. There is a little restaurant at the top of the hot springs where you can buy tea, coffee and little snacks. Otherwise, feel free to pack your own snacks and water if needed.
Pamukkale should definitely be part of your itinerary, but keep it short and sweet with one night. There is really nothing else to do. Even though it is a bit out of the way, it is worth making the detour inland.
If you really want to treat yourself book a hot air balloon flight over Pamukkale. Together with Capadocia, a hot air balloon experience over Pamukkale is probably one of the most spectacular experiences to have in Turkey. This is a definite Treat-Yourself-Moment you should add to your list.
Stop 4: Antalya
Pamukkale to Antalya - 3.5 hours, 242 km
3 overnights
Leaving Pamukkale we had a big day ahead of us! Not only did we want to head South to Antalya, but we also had a little detour via Lake Salda planned. Have you heard of Lake Salda? No? Neither had I until we watched a travel vlog on YouTube. It looked magical, like a hidden gem, that needed to be uncovered!
The Side Trip to Lake Salda
We left town at about 11 am after our hot springs experience and a little breakfast, still giving us enough time to get to Antalya by the afternoon including the little detour. Lake Salda is located about 1.5 hours South-East of Pamukkale. It was a quite cold and windy day, but the excitement about this monumental discovery kept us in good spirits.
I am not sure what we expected, but as we arrived at the designated parking area I have to say we were mildly disappointed! The lake is surely beautiful, but having read up on the nature reserve around it, it did sound way more exciting than what we found in real life. It might be a different experience in summer, maybe COVID times made it even worse, but apart from a few souvenir stalls, there was really nothing to do! We tried to go for a walk along the lake, but for the most part, it’s not permitted to get onto the beach. The small town adjacent to the lake was not very welcoming either.
At least the burning question, if we made a mistake not spending a night somewhere around the lake had been answered. So, after a few stops here and there we decided it was time to move on.
The Drive
The first part of the trip down South is not very attractive, driving past limestone quarries and industrial towns. Leaving Lake Salda behind us and joining the E87 highway again, the drive became more scenic with every kilometre, passing through mountains and beautiful pine forests. The views are amazing and you can literally feel the Mediterranean coast coming closer with the temperatures rising. From the pristine mountains, you then enter the busy city of Antalya. The city is surprisingly big with busy traffic. Keep your wits about you and go with the flow, it somehow all works out!
About Antalya
Antalya is another example of how travel is educating. In my head, Antalya was all about huge all-inclusive hotels with masses of European tourists lazing by the beach drinking beer all day. I had no idea about Kaleiçi, the beautiful old town of Antalya. I didn’t know about the lovely old harbour nestled into the cliffs below the old town. I never heard about the Hadrian’s Gate, the Roman Fortress or the stunning Taurus mountain range surrounding Antalya.
Antalya is the largest city along Southern Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. Popular with tourists, especially from Germany and Russia, the population grows from 2.5 million people in winter to about 5 million in summer. Another good reason to visit this beautiful city out of the busy high season.
If you come to Antalya, I would recommend staying in Kaleiçi, the old part of town. It is touristy, but nevertheless beautiful with an old-world atmosphere. Cobblestone streets, whitewashed Ottoman houses, boutique hotels as far as the eye can see and a huge choice of restaurants, bars and cafes. You have some of the best views of the old harbour, the steep cliffs into the Mediterranean Sea as well as the impressive Taurus Mountains on the other side of the bay. Again, you have pretty much all of the must-see historical sites within easy walking distance to your hotel.
Antalya Must-Do's
The highlights in Antalya are quickly done since they are all located close together.
The Hadrian’s Gate is one of the most imposing entrance gates into the old town and one of the must-see attractions on your doorstep. The old harbour can easily be reached walking through the maze of alleys of Kaleiçi. If you walk to the Roman Fortress you’ll have some of the best views over the bay. Close to the Fortress, you’ll find the shady Karaalioglu Park, perfect for an early morning or late afternoon stroll. There are also several local cafes in the park that invite you to relax and enjoy a good cup of coffee.
If you fancy a swim, you can go down to the Mermerli Plagi, the local swimming spot or one of the other few little beach clubs below the cliffs. For a small fee, you get a sunbed and access to the refreshing Mediterranean Sea.
Antalya really surprised me in the best possible way. The fact that there were not too many people in November (and COVID) made it of course all the more enjoyable. I would imagine that the old town would get extremely busy in the summer months. Nevertheless, Antalya was an unexpected treat and I enjoyed it a lot.
Where to Stay
As mentioned if you stay in Kaleiçi you’ll find boutique hotels for every budget. Given that you will travel by car, do make sure that the hotel offers free parking spots. The old town is mostly car-free, therefore, finding parking anywhere close to where you stay will be extremely difficult.
We stayed at Delight Deluxe Boutique Hotel, right in the heart of the old town and with parking spots available. It is a beautiful little boutique hotel with friendly and attentive staff. The rooms are tastefully decorates with all needed amenities. The hotel has a beautiful courtyard where you can have coffee or drinks. The location is fantastic as you are right in the mix of all the restaurants and bars. I would stay here any day again!
Possible Side Trips Around Antalya
Since you have a car, why not use it and explore the area around Antalya? Make sure you have enough time to relax and take it easy. But I suggest to use one day to get out and see the beautiful landscape outside the city. Here are some ideas on what to see.
Konyaalti Beach:
If you are in need of a rest day by the beach, why not try Konyaalti Beach?! You can see the beach from Antalya’s old town since Konyaalti lies just a stone throw away from the city centre. It’s a popular hangout for locals and visitors alike.
The ancient ruins of Termessos, Karain Caves & Kirköz springs:
Those two sights are situated not too far from each other which makes it the perfect combination for a day trip. Termessos is yet another archeological site of an ancient city you might enjoy admiring. The ruins are located about 34 km North-West of Antalya set in the Gulluk Mountain Termessos National Park. It’s not as popular or well preserved as Aspendos, but it’s more quiet and the scenery is just beautiful. It’s recommended to wear some good shoes if you want to explore the rocky terrain. After Termessos, you could then visit the Karain Caves, which were inhabited by prehistoric men. There is a museum on site, which gives more background to the caves. From here it’s only a quick drive to the Karst Springs of Kirköz. The area is known for its springs, sinkholes and waterfalls. Here you have a chance to get a break from ancient history and to just enjoy nature.
Perge, Aspendos & Manavgat Waterfalls:
If you just can’t get enough of ancient history, make a day of it! Start with the ancient ruins of Perge, situated only 17 km East of Antalya. Once the capital of ancient Pamphylia, these ruins might not be the best preserved, but the colonnaded streets and collapsed temples are still an impressive sight. Plus it is usually less busy here.
About 35 km further East you’ll find the Archeological site of Aspendos, one of the top tourist attractions in Turkey and considered to be the best-preserved Roman theatre worldwide. This one is a Must for any history buff.
If you are still up to explore more, you could visit the Manavgat Waterfalls, which is another 36 km further East. I haven’t visited the waterfalls myself, but it is said to be quite nice. Just don’t expect pure nature surrounding you. Seemingly restaurants, souvenir stalls and other tourist amenities are right next to the falls. If that’s not for you, don’t bother driving all the way out.
Should you visit Side?
We didn’t visit Manavgat, but I was curious about Side, the beach town adjacent to Manavgat. Every big tour operator in Germany offers cheap package holidays to Side, so I wanted to see what all the hype is about. Millions of Germans can’t be wrong! Or can they?
Entering the old town of Side, you come past some pretty impressive ancient ruins. You have to park in a designated area since you cannot drive into the old town. The biggest attraction is the Temple of Apollo, which is a truly beautiful sight, no doubt. The rest of the old town though looks like a theme park. It’s shop after shop offering their goods in German, Russian and English. Restaurants and hotels offering English breakfasts and cocktail happy hours. Everything around the ruins just looked a bit tacky. It was pretty depressing and not for me personally. Should you visit Side? Everyone is different, but if you ask me, I would rather spend my time on something else.
Antalya - What's the Verdict?
What a beautiful surprise Antalya was! Especially the old town blew me away, probably because I didn’t expect it. We had 3 nights here, if you have enough time maybe add another night or two. Especially if you plan to do a little side trips outside the city, you should be generous with your time in Antalya. Apart from all the ancient history on your doorstep, it’s a great place to relax for a couple of days and not have too many plans. The restaurants and cafes invite you to sit down and enjoy the scenery. I would also definitely invest in a sunset cruise from the old harbour. The sunsets here are just unbelievably beautiful.
My guess is though that it is important to come here during the low season because during the busy summer months it must be extremely full and very hot!
Thanks for your interest in part 1 of our road trip through Turkey! Hopefully, you got some good ideas for your future travels. Join us again next week, when we continue our road trip to Kaş, Fethiye, Dalyan and Selçuk!
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Have a super week and until next time.
