Bangkok – Experience This Amazing City Your Way!
Oh, Bangkok! She is a beast, but she has a heart of gold! You just need to know how to handle her!
Arriving in Bangkok is sensory overload! It’s huge, it’s hot, it’s noisy, the traffic is crazy and even the smells are different! Once you look past the initial chaos, you will find an exciting metropolis with many hidden gems. It’s a city of contrasts where modern meets ancient, East meets West and tranquility meets chaos! You never know what awaits you around the next corner!
Personally, it has been a rocky ride between Bangkok and me! I am not going to lie! At times, I have hated this city, but after calling Bangkok home for 4 years, I guess I love it after all!
Time is of the Essence!
Most visitors don’t spend much time in Bangkok! They just dip in and out for a few days on their way South to the islands or the cooler hills in the North of Thailand.
If you spend a bit of time here though you will realise that Bangkok is the perfect Slow Travel destination! Because time is what you need to appreciate this city! The biggest mistake you can make visiting Bangkok is trying to rush it, packing too many things into one day. Many ambitious plans have been ruined by slow-moving traffic, lost-in-translation situations, sluggishness from the heat and the sheer vastness of the city. Instead, only plan half of the day for sightseeing. For the rest of the day, stay flexible, throw yourself into the unknown and explore your neighbourhood. Most importantly though, make sure that you always keep a few hours during the day to rest – swim in the pool, relax in your room or a cafe! This will make your stay so much more enjoyable and exciting!
Expect the Unexpected!
Behind the concrete and impressive highrises, Bangkok will always keep a surprise for you. From traditional Thai houses and neighbourhoods taking you back hundreds of years to little green oases with monitor lizards and birds – anything is possible.
Let’s have a look at a few basic facts and insights into experiencing Bangkok. It will barely scratch the surface, but you got to start somewhere, right?! So, let’s go!
Climate & Jetlag
Most visitors arriving in Bangkok for the first time describe walking out of the airport doors like walking into a wall! It is hot and it is humid, the air feels thick! Some people enjoy the heat, some need a few days to acclimatise to the tropical heat. Paired with possible jetlag I would highly recommend taking the first day or two slow. There is a good chance you’ll feel lethargic and tired, which makes exploring the city less enjoyable and more overwhelming. Give your body time to recover. Once you are rested you’ll be able to enjoy the heat and throw yourself into the adventure.
Seasons
Given its proximity to the equator, the climate doesn’t change too much throughout the year. There are 3 different seasons in Bangkok to take note of. If you are not familiar with the tropics, it only seems to be going from hot and humid to hotter and more humid and then into wet hot and humid! Therefore, generally speaking, Bangkok is a great all-year-round travel destination!
November to February - The cool season!
It’s a great time to come to Bangkok! Temperatures are in the mid to high 20˚C – the perfect conditions to get out and explore. Usually, in December, there is always one magical week, where temperatures drop to around 10 – 15˚C. The locals go into shock mode and start wearing their snow gear. It’s quite a sight to be seen! The beautiful temperatures and the upcoming holidays however also makes it the high season for visitors from all around the world. This means it is generally more expensive to travel, especially around Christmas and New Years, many hotels charge higher rates than usual. Therefore, if you are travelling on a budget avoid coming over the festive season.
March to June - The hot season!
And hot it is! Every step outside seems like a hassle and you sweat 24/7 unless you are in direct contact with air conditioning. During this time you want to keep it relaxed because the heat takes its toll. If you travel to Thailand in April, please observe the dates for the Songkran festival, the Thai New Year. It’s the biggest and most important holiday for Thai’s of the entire year and it goes for about a week. During this time many locals travel themselves and many smaller shops and restaurants are closed. You have 4 day period of constant water fights in the streets. It sounds fun at first, but it quickly loses its charm. The hotel rates are higher during this festive period, so again, if you travel on a budget, I would suggest avoiding this one week in April.
July to October - The rainy season!
The wet or monsoon season is not a bad time to travel to Bangkok actually! The rain mostly comes in short, heavy showers, often in the late afternoon or evening. Sometimes it happens daily, sometimes it’s just every other day. The showers usually don’t take too long, the streets get flooded for a few hours and then things go back to normal. The best thing to do is to find a cosy place and wait it out! Even if you get drenched, it’s still always warm outside. A big plus during this time is that the air quality is much better as it gets cleaned by the rain. Therefore, if your trip to Bangkok falls into the wet season – don’t worry! It doesn’t have to mean your trip will be ruined by bad weather.
Traffic - The Art of Getting Around!
The traffic in Bangkok is intense! That’s a fact! The roads are usually full and at their worst, you can sit in traffic for an hour without moving one little bit! There doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason to the intensity of the traffic jam. Of course, you have the usual rush hours in the morning and evenings, but all other times are fair game. Maybe you’ll get stuck, maybe you won’t! There are a few different modes of transport to get around the city, which you can mix and match to beat the traffic!
BTS Sky Train & MRT Underground Train
Both great ways to get around while avoiding the traffic.
The BTS is the Sky Train system that runs above the roads. There are only two lines across Bangkok, so it’s easy to navigate! You can buy the tickets one trip at a time at the stations or you can buy a so-called rabbit card for multiple trips. If you buy a rabbit card, please bring your passport for registration. If you pay one ticket at the time, make sure that you have coins as the machines don’t take notes.
The MRT is the underground train – also a great and quick way to get around. The MRT currently only has one line, which is getting extended across the city on a rapid basis. Just like at the BTS – you can buy single trips or a multiple trip card. The two transport systems are not connected so you cannot use one card for both transport systems. Some major highlights can be best reached by BTS or MRT, so make use of those nifty transport options and avoid the traffic jams!
Taxis
Cheap and available anywhere, anytime! There is literally a taxi passing by every minute at least! Sounds too good to be true? Well, unfortunately it doesn’t always go as smooth as desired. Here are two things to look out for.
1. Scamming – if a driver gives you a set rate, he will overcharge you! Insist on the meter and if the driver refuses, close the door and wave down the next taxi. Save yourself the discussion and go with someone honest. Also, once you get into the cab, make sure the driver puts the meter on. If they refuse, stop him and get out. It doesn’t happen too often, but you save you hassle later, discussing the fare and being ripped off.
2. Language barrier – it can happen that the drivers simply don’t speak English or misunderstand your pronunciation. Try and make sure that you speak about the same place before getting in. If you are at your hotel, usually the concierges are happy to help getting a taxi for you.
How do you know if a taxi is available? All taxis have a light on in the front – mostly red, sometimes green. No matter what colour – if the light is on, it’s free, if the light is off, it’s taken! Easy!
Motorbike Taxis
This mode of transport is not for the faint-hearted and I wouldn’t recommend it for first-time visitors. It is by far the quickest way to get around, but also the unsafest. You are hopping on the back of some random guys motorbike – most of the time without a helmet – and zip through the crazy traffic of Bangkok. Often the motorbike taxis only do short distances as a sort of shuttle service. If you take the BTS or MRT there are usually motorbike taxis next to the station to get you to your destination in a 1 – 2 km radius. If you have been in the city for a while it gets extremely tempting to avoid the sweaty walks over bad pavements to hop onto a motorbike instead. It is cheap and exhilarating for sure, but not a very safe way to get around. Decide for yourself! This is only for the adventurous ones!
Tuk-Tuks
You have to take a tuk-tuk at least once when in Bangkok! It is a fun way to get around and ideal for short distances. I wouldn’t use it as my primary mode of transport, but nothing makes you feel like you’ve arrived in Asia than a good tuk-tuk ride. When it comes to prices, you’ll have to negotiate the rate before getting in. If you love haggling, this is your time to shine. Don’t just get in without having at least asked for the price. It will avoid rude awakenings later and ensures only good memories of your Tuk Tuk adventure.
Boats
Yes, Bangkok has it all! Boats are the most relaxed way to get around! Travelling on the mighty Chao Phraya River is a great way to avoid busy roads! The local express boats takes you from highlight to highlight and costs next to nothing. Luckily many of the amazing temples as well as Chinatown, Old Town and Sathorn areas are situated along the river. You can hop on and off the express boats to visit the different areas along the river.
Lesser-known than the Chao Phraya riverboats are the Klong (Canal) boats! They are much more local and run mostly unnoticed through the city’s backwaters. You can go by Klong boat from the modern and busy Sukhumvit district to the old town. Again the tickets cost next to nothing and you get to see the off-the-beaten-track side of Bangkok! One of my favourites ways to get around and a very local way to see the city!
Bangkok's Most Important Areas
Bangkok is a big city and is quite spread out. Most of Bangkok’s highlights can be found in the five areas below, so I would suggest sticking to those for starters! See which one you like the most!
Old Town - The Bang Lamphu District
The Bang Lamphu area is one of my favourite parts of the city! Situated by the river, this part of town has no highrise buildings, but smaller, often still traditional Thai houses. All the major highlights can be found here. The most famous temples are situated here – the Grand Palace, Wat Po and just across the river, you can visit Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. You’ll find the backpacker and party centre of Khao San Road and Soi Rambuttri as well as the lesser-known Samsen Road. Even though this area is the main tourist hub, it still has a great vibe and is a fantastic place to stay. It still feels like the Thailand of yesteryear!
There are many lovely guesthouses and small hotels in this area for every budget! My definite favourite is the Riva Surya Boutique Hotel overlooking the Chao Phraya River!
The Chao Phraya River on one side and the Phanfa Bridge canal on the other side give you amazing transport options to explore the city by water. If you are at the Klong boat station make sure to visit the close by Wat Saket, the Golden Mount! This temple is built on a small hill, which gives you a great view over the area! Bangkok in general is not a great walking city, but the highlights are situated so closely together here, it is easily walkable. And if it’s too hot or you just had enough of walking there is always a taxi or a tuk-tuk nearby to take you around.
It’s a great area to go out at any time of the day. You will find stalls with delicious street food, fresh fruit and juices all across the area. Don’t be afraid to eat street food, it is always fresh and save to eat! The choices of restaurants and bars is enormous, so there should be something for every taste and fancy! A must-visit is Madame Musur on Soi Rambuttri! It’s a beautiful bar with Northern Thai food, delicious cocktails and a great atmosphere!
Chinatown & Hua Lamphong
Chinatown is a must-visit neighbourhood when you come to Bangkok. From the Old Town it’s an easy boat ride on the Chao Phraya River to the Chinatown pier. This area is full of interesting things to discover – Chinese temples, street food stalls, traditional shophouses and even some modern street art. It’s a great place to explore by day, but it really comes to life by night. The glitzy neon signs light up, the street restaurants multiply and the busy streets get even busier. Make sure to have a meal at one of the street restaurants and soak in the atmosphere. Especially the seafood is delicious here and a must-try! If you fancy a drink or two overlooking the river make sure to go to the River View Residence! It’s a cute guesthouse hidden in the backstreets of Chinatown with a fabulous rooftop terrace. If you are travelling on a budget, it’s a great place to stay too. Otherwise, it’s the ideal place to watch the sun go down over the river with a delicious drink in hand!
If you like to stay in Chinatown on a slightly higher budget, I recommend the Shanghai Mansion Hotel! It’s situated smack-bang in the middle of it all with the most unique and beautiful rooms! Even if you don’t stay there, go for their amazing cocktails at the bar! It is worth a visit!
Close to Chinatown is Hua Lamphong, the main train station in Bangkok. This is where you catch the overnight trains to Chiang Mai in the North or down South to Surat Thani, from where you can access the islands of Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao. You can take the MRT to Hua Lamphong and have a look around the beautiful station building. From Hua Lamphong it’s an easy 10-minute walk to Chinatown! En-route you can visit the Wat Traimit temple and possibly stop at Soi Nana, a little side street with many cool cocktail bars! A great off-the-beaten-track find not to miss out on!
Sathorn & Silom
If you take the riverboat from Chinatown further down the river you will reach Sathorn pier! Many of the big luxury hotels are located here, like the Shangri La Hotel, The Intercontinental, Hilton or the Mandarin Oriental. While the big hotels are on the river banks, the backstreets behind the hotels hold some great hidden, local finds like Jack’s Bar for example! It’s a small, rustic, wooden bar situated over the river in a hidden side street. It’s a great place to relax and watch the life along the river.
From Sathorn pier, you can take the BTS SkyTrain to get into the centre of the area! Sathorn and Silom are the two big main roads that give the respective areas their names. This part of town is generally more affluent, with many big business towers, embassies and fancy restaurants. This makes it a very popular area amongst ex-pats to live in. We lived here for three years and I loved it. For great restaurants and bars, you have to try out Sathorn Soi 10 and Soi 12 as well as the Suan Phlu area!
Go for a drink at the Lebua State Tower rooftop terrace which is situated close to Sathorn pier. Most people know the Lebua Tower from the movie “The Hangover”. Drinks are expensive, but the views are priceless! Bangkok’s latest attraction is the Mahanakhon Tower! It’s a uniquely shaped skyscraper with Thailand’s second highest observation deck at 314 metres! Try out the SkyWalk or treat yourself to a drink at the Sky Bar!
But Bangkok is always an enigma! Next to the fancy hotels and highrise buildings, you will also find areas like Little India with a lovely Hindu temple as well as the Pat Pong red light district! There is never a dull moment here!
Please make sure to spend some time in Lumphini Park in Silom. It’s a green oasis with ponds and walkways, where you can take a breather from the busy city. Look out for the monitor lizards and turtles that roam the park freely! If you come here at 6 pm you can even join the free aerobics classes that take place throughout the park. Thai people of all ages, shapes and sizes come here to join the classes and work out together. It’s fun to watch if you don’t want to join in! Lumphini Park is definitely worth a visit, a beautiful tranquil sanctuary, lined by impressive skyscrapers!
Phatum Wan District
A quick BTS ride from Sathorn & Silom gets you to the Phatum Wan district, the shopping district and connection to Sukhumvit Road! This is the other face of Bangkok – modern highrises and shopping malls! If you are up for a shopping spree and you have the needed cash, you’ll have the best time here! The most famous of the malls in Bangkok is Siam Paragon, an impressive modern mall, with many luxury brands and a huge outdoor area with art installations and ever-changing events. Siam Paragon is also home to the SeaLife Aquarium Bangkok, worth a visit especially if you travel with kids. The MBK shopping mall at the National Stadium BTS station is a hybrid between market stalls and shopping mall. You can find any fake luxury brand here as well as tailors, souvenir stalls and food courts. Amongst all the modern luxury, this area is also home to the Erawan shrine, a beautiful Thai shrine dedicated to Mahabrahma, ruler of the Brahma realm of the Buddhist cosmology. If you are interested in art, visit the Bangkok Arts & Culture Centre, a museum with changing exhibitions. My recommendation though is a visit to the Jim Thompson House! This beautiful Thai homestead is hidden just off the main road, in a little side street opposite the MBK mall. Jim Thompson was an American businessman, who brought the silk industry in Thailand back to life in the 1950s & ’60s. While on a hiking holiday in the Cameron Highlands, Malaysia, Jim Thompson disappeared on 26 March 1967 never to be seen again! It’s a fascinating story that comes to life when you visit Jim Thompson’s stunning Thai home!
Sukhumvit
Sukhumvit Road is said to be the longest road in Thailand, going all the way from Bangkok to the border of Cambodia. I am not sure if this is true, but it is a massive road! It is home to different neighbourhoods to the left and right along Sukhumvit Road. In Thailand, all smaller side streets off a big road are called Soi’s. Sukhumvit has hundreds of Soi’s. All Soi’s to the right of the road are numbered even, all Soi’s to the left are odd numbers. The further you get away from Siam or the Phatum Wan district, the higher the Soi numbers get. It’s a good orientation! The BTS stops are called according to the area, which makes it easy to navigate.
If you fancy some authentic Middle Eastern food and atmosphere, explore Soi Arab. It’s the area between Sukhumvit Soi 3 and 5, a hive of activity and a great place to explore. Travelling further down Sukhumvit you will find Soi Nana around Sukhumvit Soi 8. This area is known to be a bit seedy with plenty of sports bars and bar maids that take care of more than just your beer.
Further up Sukhumvit Road are Asok and Phrom Phong, each with a shopping mall right at the BTS station. In both areas you’ll find little parks and many hotels!
Thonglor is situated around Soi 55 and is a more high-end area with many exciting bars and restaurants! Many Japanese ex-pats are based here, so there is a huge variety of typical Japanese restaurants around here. It’s a popular spot for Thai’s and ex-pats alike to go out! While it’s insanely busy, I got to love this area.
One of the best spots in Thonglor are The Commons, a sort of indoor market with different eateries and little shops. You can by your drinks and food from any of the stalls, sit down and enjoy the day. Over the weekends they have life music and it’s a great atmosphere. While a lot of fun, it is however not a cheap place to spend the day. A few stops further down Sukhumvit Road at Phra Khanong BTS station you’ll find the W District. It’s the same concept as the Commons, but outdoors, less fancy and cheaper! They have some amazing food stalls and it’s a fun place to spend the evening!
As you see, the list of places and little fascinating pockets around Sukhumvit is as endless as the road!
The people of the "Land of Smiles"
Thailand is also called “the land of smiles”! And true to its name, Thai people do smile and laugh a lot, are generally very friendly and polite. Coming from a Western background this easy-going openness is refreshing! If you travel as a family, Thailand is the perfect destination because Thai people genuinely love children! They fuss about them, play with them, shower them with little gifts – it is truly heart-warming to see! If the waitress runs off with your baby, don’t be alarmed, she is just excited to show off your child to her colleagues and get a few cuddles!
Say What?
Most frustrations between Thai’s and Westerners are rooted in language barriers and cultural misunderstandings. While the Western way is very direct and straight forward, the Asian way seems indirect and complicated. You will never get a straightforward ‘no’ to any request in Thailand. That doesn’t mean that you will get what you have asked for. It will just never materialise without you being any wiser as to why. If confronted with a complaint or even anger, most Thai’s resort to nervous giggle or laughter! This in return is usually misunderstood by the average Westerner as being disrespectful or just plain stupid. Neither is the case, but it’s the Thai way of dealing with uncomfortable situations. It can lead to quite funny situations but can be frustrating at times. Just note that not all smiles you receive in Thailand are genuine! Try to tread lightly and stay patient, in most cases it is a simple misunderstanding!
Safety
Bangkok – and Thailand in general – is a very safe place to travel in. You don’t have to worry about walking around the city alone at night! The chances of being mugged are close to zero! Petty crime like stealing or random acts of violence are extremely rare. Foreigners who come to harm in Thailand are usually the ones that play with fire. My tip is – don’t get motherless drunk in seedy bars and under no circumstances get involved in drugs. The only way people try to ‘steal’ from you is through little scams, such as overcharging for taxi rides, trying to sell you worthless jewellery or pressuring you into booking travel on fake tuk-tuk tours. If you are aware of the scams, it is a pretty safe and fun place to travel in!
The Most Important Do's & Don'ts
One of the biggest misconceptions about Thailand is that it is pretty loose and everything is allowed! Meanwhile, sex tourism is a reality, Thai culture, in general, is very conservative. That means don’t dress in skimpy clothes, it is disrespectful! Many tourists still do, but if you want to be respectful make sure your shorts cover your entire buttocks. Especially when visiting any temple you won’t be allowed in unless you cover your shoulders and your legs. Usually, you can rent a sarong to cover yourself, but maybe keep it in mind when getting dressed that day.
Old people and monks are highly respected in Thailand! It is expected to make space on public transport for the elderly and monks to sit down. On the BTS and MRT you’ll find designated seats for elderly, pregnant women and monks, so make sure to keep those open.
Another absolute no-no is to touch anyone’s head! The head is the highest part of the body and sacred. Even patting a child on the head is not ok, so stay away from touching anyone’s head. And while we are at it, keep your feet on the ground at all times. They are considered the lowest part of your body and considered dirty. Therefore, do not put them on seats and point them towards people or Buddha statues. And god forbid your feet are higher than someone’s head, this is when the Thai politeness will disappear.
Do not discuss the Thai royal family with the people! In a worst-case scenario, speaking ill of the king can land you in prison as it’s considered a crime. Also don’t press people about their opinion on the government. The military is still ruling the country and people don’t like to share their feelings about politics.
As mentioned earlier people in Thailand deal differently with conflict! When in doubt don’t raise your voice and get agitated. Try and stay calm solving the issue. Losing your temper is highly disrespectful!
And last but not least – instead of shaking hands, Thai people “wai”! The wai is bowing slightly in front of each other while pressing your palms together at your chest. Usually, people are not offended if you as a foreigner don’t wai back at them, but it’s not hard and shows that you are trying! So, give it a whirl!
I hope you enjoyed this introduction to Bangkok! There are so many more exciting things to write about. But one thing at a time! Watch this space and check out the foodie corner for the coolest restaurants and bars in Bangkok!
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Until next time!
XXX
